Old school driving habits older drivers swear by that ruin modern cars

[Kamaji]

Old school driving habits older drivers swear by that ruin modern cars

Story by Amanda Hayes
December 23, 2025

Ignoring Warning Lights Because the Car Still Runs

Older cars could keep going with issues that weren’t urgent. However, today’s vehicles use warning lights to track and alert you to potential mechanical failures. Modern vehicles have sensors that communicate with all parts of the automobile. Neglecting an issue will cause major problems, including reduced fuel efficiency, higher emissions, and a negative impact on your engine health. Just because your vehicle appears to be fine does not mean it is in good working condition. Being proactive about an issue before it develops into a larger one can save you the hassle and expense of a severe breakdown.

Warming Up the Engine Forever

Back in the day, vehicles required extensive warm-up because carburetors were fussy and engines liked slower ramp-ups. Now we have much better technology, and when you allow your engine to sit idle for long periods, you waste fuel, and residue builds up inside the engine. To get a modern car into optimal operating mode, all you need to do is a short start, maybe for 30 seconds.
Driving gently helps get things warm quickly and evenly, way better than letting them idle for long periods. Long periods of idling can eventually shorten an engine's lifespan. And while it may seem like the responsible thing to do, modern engines really just want you to get moving calmly.

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Source:  https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/old-school-driving-habits-older-drivers-swear-by-that-ruin-modern-cars/ss-AA1STozr

[roamer_1]

Still the same - at least in the examples you cite...

It depends which warning light you're talking about, and always has. In fact, old skool was entirely more succinct - If your amp meter is on the negative side, you won't be going far... And if the oil or water temp idiot light is on, you'd better be pulling over and shutting off right now.

Modern cars, the warnings are subjective and often confusing... You even need a code reader to find out what they are talking about. I know plenty of folks driving around with codes no one knows how to clear.

As far as not letting the car warm up is concerned, that's just plain wrong, and easily proven in bitter cold temperatures. However... Driving it nice, being easy with it, is about the same thing. You don't want to give it the onions till it is up to working temp. Again, always been that way.

[DB]

Still the same - at least in the examples you cite...

It depends which warning light you're talking about, and always has. In fact, old skool was entirely more succinct - If your amp meter is on the negative side, you won't be going far... And if the oil or water temp idiot light is on, you'd better be pulling over and shutting off right now.

Modern cars, the warnings are subjective and often confusing... You even need a code reader to find out what they are talking about. I know plenty of folks driving around with codes no one knows how to clear.

As far as not letting the car warm up is concerned, that's just plain wrong, and easily proven in bitter cold temperatures. However... Driving it nice, being easy with it, is about the same thing. You don't want to give it the onions till it is up to working temp. Again, always been that way.

One argument for not warming up your car very long is, the longer it runs while under temperature the more wear there is. So, putting the engine under a light load heats it up quicker reducing overall wear. Very cold climates may invalidate that claim - I don't know. I'm told that it isn't an issue with lubricant making its way to all the locations needed but is instead the thermal expansion of the many components achieving the proper clearances to minimize wear/friction. Modern cars may have better thermal expansion matching between components making the operating temperature less critical from a cold start.

[roamer_1]

One argument for not warming up your car very long is, the longer it runs while under temperature the more wear there is. So, putting the engine under a light load heats it up quicker reducing overall wear. Very cold climates may invalidate that claim - I don't know. I'm told that it isn't an issue with lubricant making its way to all the locations needed but is instead the thermal expansion of the many components achieving the proper clearances to minimize wear/friction. Modern cars may have better thermal expansion matching between components making the operating temperature less critical from a cold start.

Well, modern engines run on tighter specs - Half a thousandth compared to somewhere between three and ten thousandths in older stuff (taper allowances could make a difference)... So it is quite likely that with less room to bang around, modern stuff might cause less rubbing. But not by much. And certainly not in frigid temps... It is still better to let things warm up

Granted, as I said - being nice to it is about the same as fast idle. And cold definitively changes all that. Bitter cold, for sure. Anyone who lives with 20-30 below will tell you that u-joints snap easy in those conditions, and so does all the rest.

But then, that's a pretty moot point, because nobody is going to go sit in a cold car to drive off in those temps anyway. If it is below zero you will let it warm up till you can see the defrosters are working, at the very, very least, and most folks will let it be till it is piping hot in the cabin. Me included.

[DB]

Well, modern engines run on tighter specs - Half a thousandth compared to somewhere between three and ten thousandths in older stuff (taper allowances could make a difference)... So it is quite likely that with less room to bang around, modern stuff might cause less rubbing. But not by much. And certainly not in frigid temps... It is still better to let things warm up

Granted, as I said - being nice to it is about the same as fast idle. And cold definitively changes all that. Bitter cold, for sure. Anyone who lives with 20-30 below will tell you that u-joints snap easy in those conditions, and so does all the rest.

But then, that's a pretty moot point, because nobody is going to go sit in a cold car to drive off in those temps anyway. If it is below zero you will let it warm up till you can see the defrosters are working, at the very, very least, and most folks will let it be till it is piping hot in the cabin. Me included.

I'm thankful I don't live in those conditions... It has to get harder and harder as you age.

[Kamaji]

Well, modern engines run on tighter specs - Half a thousandth compared to somewhere between three and ten thousandths in older stuff (taper allowances could make a difference)... So it is quite likely that with less room to bang around, modern stuff might cause less rubbing. But not by much. And certainly not in frigid temps... It is still better to let things warm up

Granted, as I said - being nice to it is about the same as fast idle. And cold definitively changes all that. Bitter cold, for sure. Anyone who lives with 20-30 below will tell you that u-joints snap easy in those conditions, and so does all the rest.

But then, that's a pretty moot point, because nobody is going to go sit in a cold car to drive off in those temps anyway. If it is below zero you will let it warm up till you can see the defrosters are working, at the very, very least, and most folks will let it be till it is piping hot in the cabin. Me included.

New cars heat up much faster because they use electric heating elements, and don't wait for the water temperature from the engine to reach operating temperature.

Letting a new engine sit and idle after startup does more damage to it than driving off as soon as feasible.

Much of what you learned about how to run a car in the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, and even 90s, is not only no longer really applicable, it can in some cases do more harm than good.

And the warning light systems are much more granular than the old "check engine" light - there is a significantly larger number of indicators, and a hierarchy of yellow, orange, and red colorings that indicate the degree to which the vehicle can continue to operate before the underlying condition must be corrected.

[Smokin Joe]

Still the same - at least in the examples you cite...

It depends which warning light you're talking about, and always has. In fact, old skool was entirely more succinct - If your amp meter is on the negative side, you won't be going far... And if the oil or water temp idiot light is on, you'd better be pulling over and shutting off right now.

Modern cars, the warnings are subjective and often confusing... You even need a code reader to find out what they are talking about. I know plenty of folks driving around with codes no one knows how to clear.

As far as not letting the car warm up is concerned, that's just plain wrong, and easily proven in bitter cold temperatures. However... Driving it nice, being easy with it, is about the same thing. You don't want to give it the onions till it is up to working temp. Again, always been that way.

I keep an OBD2 reader in my kit in my active vehicle (Foxwell, about $50). I can read codes (saved my butt in Missouri going cross country--crankshaft position sensor--easy fix, but I wasn't going anywhere until I did), and erase the ones which are not serious. Warm them up slow like the old 400 modified engines and run them when they are warm. I usually plug them in under 30 above, just to get the oil circulating better quicker and run synthetic oil. When I have an interior icing problem in the cabin, I get the heater cranked and vent the cabin air a few times (just open the windows). Air at zero degrees has little moisture, and replacing the cabin air a few times will dry the inside out.

[Smokin Joe]

I'm thankful I don't live in those conditions... It has to get harder and harder as you age.

It requires forethought and a little patience. That's easier to muster in my old age, and by the time you have lived in it for a few decades, it's just winter.

[Smokin Joe]

New cars heat up much faster because they use electric heating elements, and don't wait for the water temperature from the engine to reach operating temperature.

Letting a new engine sit and idle after startup does more damage to it than driving off as soon as feasible.

Much of what you learned about how to run a car in the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, and even 90s, is not only no longer really applicable, it can in some cases do more harm than good.

And the warning light systems are much more granular than the old "check engine" light - there is a significantly larger number of indicators, and a hierarchy of yellow, orange, and red colorings that indicate the degree to which the vehicle can continue to operate before the underlying condition must be corrected.

Mine are still all 20th century vehicles. No viewscreens, just analog instruments. But when a check engine light comes on it is only one color. Synthetic oil in the engines, and synthetic gear lube in the differentials makes a difference, too. And plug the car in when it's below 30 above. Highest cold cranking amp battery that will fit, too. All that makes for reliability.

[Kamaji]

Mine are still all 20th century vehicles. No viewscreens, just analog instruments. But when a check engine light comes on it is only one color. Synthetic oil in the engines, and synthetic gear lube in the differentials makes a difference, too. And plug the car in when it's below 30 above. Highest cold cranking amp battery that will fit, too. All that makes for reliability.

Older cars are definitely a different species from today's new cars.

[roamer_1]

New cars heat up much faster because they use electric heating elements, and don't wait for the water temperature from the engine to reach operating temperature.

Letting a new engine sit and idle after startup does more damage to it than driving off as soon as feasible.

Much of what you learned about how to run a car in the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, and even 90s, is not only no longer really applicable, it can in some cases do more harm than good.

And the warning light systems are much more granular than the old "check engine" light - there is a significantly larger number of indicators, and a hierarchy of yellow, orange, and red colorings that indicate the degree to which the vehicle can continue to operate before the underlying condition must be corrected.

I will respectfully disagree - If the cabin is warm, that's nice... but the turning stuff is still far more brittle below zero than otherwise. Letting that come to operating temp is paramount.

Now, I know that is not as critical above zero, but the absurd demonstrates the truth of it.

[roamer_1]

I'm thankful I don't live in those conditions... It has to get harder and harder as you age.

Nah.. Just like old desert rats don't mind the heat, I've run so much clear mountain ice water through these veins that the cold just don't bother me much. The arthritis actually gets better below zero. I come alive at -10. It's hell right around freezing with all the moisture in the air.

[roamer_1]

I keep an OBD2 reader in my kit in my active vehicle (Foxwell, about $50). I can read codes (saved my butt in Missouri going cross country--crankshaft position sensor--easy fix, but I wasn't going anywhere until I did), and erase the ones which are not serious. Warm them up slow like the old 400 modified engines and run them when they are warm. I usually plug them in under 30 above, just to get the oil circulating better quicker and run synthetic oil. When I have an interior icing problem in the cabin, I get the heater cranked and vent the cabin air a few times (just open the windows). Air at zero degrees has little moisture, and replacing the cabin air a few times will dry the inside out.

All wisdom I know to be true. 

I had a laptop rigged to read automotive for a while... It was kinda fun to hook it up and drive the car... watch what all was happening. And I have used the information to fix with too - mostly my minivan, but some few others too.

Anyhow, what would be fun is hacking those systems. But I lost interest pretty quick. The reality is that simple systems are more reliable. Complication, by its nature, creates more points of failure... Points of failure that I couldn't afford at the end of some God-forsaken two-track, 30 miles or more from town. I will stick to the old stuff I can fix with the crap that collected on the bottom of my road box, thanks. 

[roamer_1]

But when a check engine light comes on it is only one color.

Never paid no mind to idiot lights anyhow... I always (always) install analog gauges. If it is a rig I intend to keep, I install a full set of analog under the hood, with just the big 3 and a tach in the cab. 

[Sighlass]

My school of thought (instilled by dad) was it wasn't good to idle cars/trucks because somehow the oil didn't circulate good unless you were putting an engine through the paces (moving). So even rocking back and forth (until you windows defrosted enough to see) in the yard was better than just sitting there going nowhere.

True that sub-zero temps rarely are a factor in cars/trucks here. 

[roamer_1]

My school of thought (instilled by dad) was it wasn't good to idle cars/trucks because somehow the oil didn't circulate good unless you were putting an engine through the paces (moving). So even rocking back and forth (until you windows defrosted enough to see) in the yard was better than just sitting there going nowhere.

True that sub-zero temps rarely are a factor in cars/trucks here.

That's mostly kinda false, unless you have an engine that is real old and unable to make decent pressure at idle (fast idle)... If the motor can't do better than 10 lbs pressure, you're old man is right...

One of the first additions I would make to any engine build was a TRW high volume oil pump - Even at low idle, that was better than 20 lbs., . which is a great plenty. Stock would be 15 lbs or so... Which is enough.

[Kamaji]

I will respectfully disagree - If the cabin is warm, that's nice... but the turning stuff is still far more brittle below zero than otherwise. Letting that come to operating temp is paramount.

Now, I know that is not as critical above zero, but the absurd demonstrates the truth of it.

By “turning stuff” you mean what?  The wheels?

[roamer_1]

By “turning stuff” you mean what?  The wheels?

Motor, transmission, transfer case... The entirety of the running gear and chassis... Have you ever been in bitter cold and let the machine warm up, but even so, the thing feels super stiff when you first start out? The chasis - springs, shocks, and all that is still cold, even if you did bring the thing to operational temp. That ain't a good time to feed it the beans. Go easy. After everything gets stretched, and used to flexing again, THEN.

Again, the bitter cold just illustrates - It's the same thing no matter.
You can say what you want about modernity - but the nature of springs and bushings and bearings remain the same. 

[Smokin Joe]

Motor, transmission, transfer case... The entirety of the running gear and chassis... Have you ever been in bitter cold and let the machine warm up, but even so, the thing feels super stiff when you first start out? The chasis - springs, shocks, and all that is still cold, even if you did bring the thing to operational temp. That ain't a good time to feed it the beans. Go easy. After everything gets stretched, and used to flexing again, THEN.

Again, the bitter cold just illustrates - It's the same thing no matter.
You can say what you want about modernity - but the nature of springs and bushings and bearings remain the same. 

Many moons ago, I had to change out a half shaft seal in the rear end of my old field van. A good friend offered the use of his shop (temps outside were in the 20s below zero, and that shop had a heated floor, so naturally, I accepted). When I had the seal changed out, the axle back in, and the differential back together, he said to "Try this". That was my introduction to synthetic differential lube. Normally, at -20 to -30, the old beast would be really slow to move, but with the synthetic gear lube, it was like coming out of the starting blocks. One hell of a difference, and I have used nothing but in the differentials of my vehicles since.

[roamer_1]

Many moons ago, I had to change out a half shaft seal in the rear end of my old field van. A good friend offered the use of his shop (temps outside were in the 20s below zero, and that shop had a heated floor, so naturally, I accepted). When I had the seal changed out, the axle back in, and the differential back together, he said to "Try this". That was my introduction to synthetic differential lube. Normally, at -20 to -30, the old beast would be really slow to move, but with the synthetic gear lube, it was like coming out of the starting blocks. One hell of a difference, and I have used nothing but in the differentials of my vehicles since.

That's right. I run synthetics in mine too - Except the engine and transmission. Weird, huh? But I change oil a whole lot in the engine and tranny - I am a big believer in fresh oil. And synthetics are too high in cost at that frequency. And I still prefer 30w in the summer and 10/30 in the winter.

But the rest of it - Transfer case, differentials, and transmission, if it's a stick... All the 90w places are all synth. Now that I ain't burying the thing in mud or in the river every other weekend, that stuff doesn't get changed as much (or rather, nearly at all), so synth is worth the money.

And I am a big fan of Kendall Super Blue for grease. When I was in lawn care, I got sold on that. Nothing else comes close to that super blue staying in the timken rotors on mowing machines, which is about as punishing an environment as you will find.

[Timber Rattler]

Way too many sensors on "modern cars."  They tend to break before the actual parts they monitor, like the useless oxygen sensors.  I'll take the old school analog dashboard instruments over the slick digital ones any day.  I want my 1980s cars back!

[roamer_1]

Way too many sensors on "modern cars."  They tend to break before the actual parts they monitor, like the useless oxygen sensors.  I'll take the old school analog dashboard instruments over the slick digital ones any day.  I want my 1980s cars back!

My minivan is ODB2, but I have been blessed to have never owned(for keeps) a pickup newer than '85

[Smokin Joe]

That's right. I run synthetics in mine too - Except the engine and transmission. Weird, huh? But I change oil a whole lot in the engine and tranny - I am a big believer in fresh oil. And synthetics are too high in cost at that frequency. And I still prefer 30w in the summer and 10/30 in the winter.

But the rest of it - Transfer case, differentials, and transmission, if it's a stick... All the 90w places are all synth. Now that I ain't burying the thing in mud or in the river every other weekend, that stuff doesn't get changed as much (or rather, nearly at all), so synth is worth the money.

And I am a big fan of Kendall Super Blue for grease. When I was in lawn care, I got sold on that. Nothing else comes close to that super blue staying in the timken rotors on mowing machines, which is about as punishing an environment as you will find.

I bite the bullet and run synthetic in the engines, too. When it hits -30 and you can't plug it in but have to go, it's gratifying (even though I cringe a bit and hate to do it) to have that engine start.

But I have tried to pour 30W (mineral oil, not synthetic) at 30 below, and it doesn't. I am a firm believer in oil changes every 3,000 miles, too.

Yes, it's expensive, and in theory that oil is good for 5,000 miles or more, but I was told by a wise old shadetree mechanic that the long chain hydrocarbons in motor oil tend to break down with stress, and my reading confirms that. Besides, if it's anything but honey colored, its carrying a load of particulates around the engine, and that can't be good.

I think it works, because I have a rebuilt carbureted engine that has over 120,000 miles on the rebuild. Dropped the break in oil at 500 miles (drove down to Casper, WY, on my way to a well in Nevada and changed the oil in the K Mart parking lot), ran regular 30W Castrol for the next 2500 miles, and went to Syntec for the winter when I got home. The long trip for the break in run didn't hurt, either, but the longest that engine went between oil changes was about 3500 miles, and it will still fire today.

[roamer_1]

I bite the bullet and run synthetic in the engines, too. When it hits -30 and you can't plug it in but have to go, it's gratifying (even though I cringe a bit and hate to do it) to have that engine start.

But I have tried to pour 30W (mineral oil, not synthetic) at 30 below, and it doesn't. I am a firm believer in oil changes every 3,000 miles, too.

Yes, it's expensive, and in theory that oil is good for 5,000 miles or more, but I was told by a wise old shadetree mechanic that the long chain hydrocarbons in motor oil tend to break down with stress, and my reading confirms that. Besides, if it's anything but honey colored, its carrying a load of particulates around the engine, and that can't be good.

I think it works, because I have a rebuilt carbureted engine that has over 120,000 miles on the rebuild. Dropped the break in oil at 500 miles (drove down to Casper, WY, on my way to a well in Nevada and changed the oil in the K Mart parking lot), ran regular 30W Castrol for the next 2500 miles, and went to Syntec for the winter when I got home. The long trip for the break in run didn't hurt, either, but the longest that engine went between oil changes was about 3500 miles, and it will still fire today.

I am a bit more cavalier because I beat my rigs like a 2 dollar mule. Always have. Now, I take real good care of them, don't get me wrong, but I am always and continually asking em to do more than they can do.

With that, one discovers wisdom - Like figuring out that I break more shocks first thing in the morning, so you figure out to be easy on it till it warms up... And all the other things we have been discussing.

My focus has always been performance over miles - funny how we come to the same conclusions.