The Longest-Lasting Cars to Reach 200,000 Miles and Beyond

[Elderberry]

ISeeCars By Julie Blackley

2019 Study Shows Full-Size SUVs Dominate

Full-size SUVs are the vehicles that are most likely to reach 200,000 miles or more, according to a new study by automotive research firm and car search engine iSeeCars.com.

iSeeCars analyzed over 13.8 million cars sold in 2018 to determine which models have the highest percentage of cars that reached 200,000 miles. The top 14 models identified each have at least 2.2 percent (almost three times the overall average) of their vehicles reach that mileage and include a mix of vehicle types with nine SUVs including a hybrid, three pickup trucks, a sedan, and a minivan. 

“With the right maintenance and care, today’s vehicles have the potential to reach 200,000 miles,” said iSeeCars CEO Phong Ly. “While large SUVs and pickup trucks appear most often on the list, those looking for sedans and minivans can also find a vehicle that is proven to be a high-mileage hauler.”

Methodology

iSeeCars.com analyzed over 13.8 million pre-owned cars sold in 2018 from model years 1981 through 2018. Models that were not in production as of the 2018 model year, heavy duty-vehicles, and low-volume models were excluded from further analysis. For each model, the percentage of the number of cars with at least 200,000 miles was calculated.

Tables at Link: https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-cars-2019-study

[rustynail]

Interesting article.  Would not have guessed the percentages were so low.

[roamer_1]

Interesting article.  Would not have guessed the percentages were so low.

I would. And more than that, today's vehicles are not rebuildable - they are so costly and complicated as to make rebuilding them impossible.

I have a 78 Chevy 4x4 whose mileage had rolled over at least once when I acquired it. I have personally seen it roll over once in my presence, and it is about to roll over again. There is not a single thing on it that has not been replaced at least once.

And I am about to rebuild it again. I have an early 80's body to put on her, straight as a whistle, and clean... Brand new wiring harnesses, brand new lights and electronics, new gas tanks, new brakes and brake lines... Rebuilt 3/4 T diffs, and a 5sp trans to give her overdrive... And a nice little flattop 350 sitting in the shed...

This is probably the last time. It will last me till I die.
You cannot do that on anything 96 and up.

[Free Vulcan]

Buick. End of discussion.

They don't get broke in good till 150k.

My '98 has 290K on it right now and runs great, cheap to fix, and gets 30+ MPG on the highway.

[Bigun]

Buick. End of discussion.

They don't get broke in good till 150k.

My '98 has 290K on it right now and runs great, cheap to fix, and gets 30+ MPG on the highway.

I had a 1986 Saab 900S that was well over 300K and still running fine when I sold it to my BIL because he needed a reliable vehicle.  Don't make them like that anymore.  Back then the only other thing Saab Scannia made was jet fighter aircraft for  NATO and it showed.

[InHeavenThereIsNoBeer]

Interesting article.  Would not have guessed the percentages were so low.

Seems a bit low, but then I don't know how many Cash for Clunkers claimed.

Also, I think their methodology is crap.  They studied only used vehicles sold in 2018, then make it sound like it's a valid sample to extrapolate to the general population of vehicles.  But could it be that most people "trade in" vehicles with much lower miles, while the people that have vehicles with over 200k miles tend to keep them longer/forever?  Or that people aren't interested in buying a used car with >200k[1]? Just because it wasn't resold in 2018 doesn't mean it doesn't exist.


[1] Actually, the guys back home who raced bomber class weren't interested in engines that didn't have at least 200k on them.  They figured by that point, any defects/irregularities in the casting of the block would have shown themselves.

[truth_seeker]

I had a 1986 Saab 900S that was well over 300K and still running fine when I sold it to my BIL because he needed a reliable vehicle.  Don't make them like that anymore.  Back then the only other thing Saab Scannia made was jet fighter aircraft for  NATO and it showed.

I would not have figured you as a Saab guy. @Bigun

I got a used 2000 9-3. Loved it. My first turbo, first front wheel drive vehicle.


Sad to see them fail.

[sneakypete]

Buick. End of discussion.

They don't get broke in good till 150k.

My '98 has 290K on it right now and runs great, cheap to fix, and gets 30+ MPG on the highway.

@Free Vulcan

IMNSHO,it is a rare American car today that won't go over 200k miles with nothing more than minimal repairs. Modern oils,and computers that insure the engines are in perfect tune at every RPM range are responsible for this. Back in the old points days,your engine could only be in perfect tune at idle or wide-open throttle. Now they are in a perfect state of tune no matter where they are in the RPM band.

And don't get me started on diesel pu's. My 06 GMC 2500 4X4 has 365 hp and 665 ft lbs of torque and the 6 speed Allison auto trans,and I switched every fluid in it over to synthetic when I bought it,and it was showing 98 K miles. I once pulled 20k lbs with it from ND to Virginia several years ago,and cruised down the road at 75 mph with the cruise control on and didn't even know I was pulling anything. I am going to be shocked if I don't get at least 400 K out of it before any major mechanical repairs are needed. I have several people lined up wanting to buy it if I ever decide to sell it,AND they are offering me more than I paid for it when I bought it in 2010.  Of course,the fact that new ones like this cost more than 60 grand today and have smog control equipment that my truck never had has something to do with that. The only smog equipment mine left the factory with was an EGR valve.

[Smokin Joe]

@Free Vulcan

IMNSHO,it is a rare American car today that won't go over 200k miles with nothing more than minimal repairs. Modern oils,and computers that insure the engines are in perfect tune at every RPM range are responsible for this. Back in the old points days,your engine could only be in perfect tune at idle or wide-open throttle. Now they are in a perfect state of tune no matter where they are in the RPM band.

And don't get me started on diesel pu's. My 06 GMC 2500 4X4 has 365 hp and 665 ft lbs of torque and the 6 speed Allison auto trans,and I switched every fluid in it over to synthetic when I bought it,and it was showing 98 K miles. I once pulled 20k lbs with it from ND to Virginia several years ago,and cruised down the road at 75 mph with the cruise control on and didn't even know I was pulling anything. I am going to be shocked if I don't get at least 400 K out of it before any major mechanical repairs are needed. I have several people lined up wanting to buy it if I ever decide to sell it,AND they are offering me more than I paid for it when I bought it in 2010.  Of course,the fact that new ones like this cost more than 60 grand today and have smog control equipment that my truck never had has something to do with that. The only smog equipment mine left the factory with was an EGR valve.

I have been running 5.7 gas GM from the late 90s, and switched them all over to synthetic oil. They get plugged in (engine heaters) below 10 above (sometimes warmer), and are always warmed up in winter before making even short hops. Three are above 200K, right now, and while the bolt-ons have been replaced, they have been good mills. I'd still take any of them to the coast (2000 miles, to the East side), and have Routinely trips of 700+ miles one way aren't unusual. I change oil and filter every 3K miles, (if it's black, it's full of abrasives, is how I see it), and keep up the routine stuff.

I think part of the problems people have is that they assume it's okay and don't check anything until an idiot light comes on or it breaks. I am shocked how few people know even the basics of how their car works, something we learned back in the days when we carried an extra point set, a match book, a condenser, and a screwdriver in the glove box at all times....

[Free Vulcan]

I had a 1986 Saab 900S that was well over 300K and still running fine when I sold it to my BIL because he needed a reliable vehicle.  Don't make them like that anymore.  Back then the only other thing Saab Scannia made was jet fighter aircraft for  NATO and it showed.

Saab made some great cars back in the day. I recall they held their trade value well because they were so reliable. I don't know what they are like today, but the old ones were legendary.

[Bigun]

Saab made some great cars back in the day. I recall they held their trade value well because they were so reliable. I don't know what they are like today, but the old ones were legendary.

IIRC Saab was bought out by GM and that was the end of that.  Same with Volvo except it was Ford that bought the Volvo name.

[sneakypete]

I have been running 5.7 gas GM from the late 90s, and switched them all over to synthetic oil.

The synthetic oil is great stuff. Too bad you got stuck on GM. If you had been running a Ford,or even better,a 318/360 Dodge,you would be doing even better. GM is what keeps commercial garages in business.


 

I change oil and filter every 3K miles, (if it's black, it's full of abrasives, is how I see it), and keep up the routine stuff.

You need to run some engine flush through your block. Synthetic oil does a pretty good job of flushing away contaminants so the oil filter can catch the big ones,but it's not an engine flush.

You SHOULD be able to change oil and filter every 10k miles at a MINIMUM,and see what almost looks like clean oil drain out. Seems like you must have a blow-by problem. Change your PCV valve and hope that does it. If it doesn't,you have blow-by in your rings.

BTW,do NOT use that partial synthetic crap or use heavy oil unless your engine is a oil burner. I personally prefer Mobile 1,and run 0-20 wt in my new truck,and 5w-40 turbo diesel Mobile 1 in my good truck.

Still stuck with using non-detergent oil in stuff like my stock 51 Fords,and will do so until I have the time to drop the oil pans and clean them out.

I think part of the problems people have is that they assume it's okay and don't check anything until an idiot light comes on or it breaks.

From what I saw while working as a mechanic,they didn't even care then. Mostly they were concerned with the inconvenience.
 

[Gefn]

I have a Subaru Impreza and it’s the best car I’ve ever had.

Plan on keeping it for the rest of my life or the next 25 years which ever comes first. Unless it’s totaled of course in an accident

[roamer_1]

IMNSHO,it is a rare American car today that won't go over 200k miles with nothing more than minimal repairs.

That's probably pretty close to right, @sneakypete , though I would say 150k is probably closer to the truth for problem free... Transmissions, as a rule, don't make it to 200k...

But while you are right, and I can speak very specifically of Chevy/GM pickups, Tahoes, and Suburbans - when they hit 200k they're all used up. There ain't no more. Wiring gremlins start showing up, and the sheer cost and time involved in replacing the wiring, sensors, and switches/relays/etc is crazy money. Motor, tranny, and transfer case are all wore out, and the diffs too, unless it is 3/4t or better. There ain't a dang thing left. It's a crusher.

But pre-90's rigs... Yeah they didn't go as far. Maybe they'd get to 110-120k... But the difference is, they weren't done. They were infinitely rebuildable. That's why they are still on the road today. I don't think you'll be seeing 90's chevys on the road 40 or 50 years later. And they only get worse. double-otts were pretty good yet, but the 10's are craptastic.

And all that is squeezing the secondary market. The used market is far more substantial than the 'new-10 year old' market. And because the newer rigs are less likely to be rebuilt, finding parts in the aftermarket is becoming harder to do.

The entire industry is becoming a tribute to planned obsolescence, and it's a cryin shame. 

[roamer_1]

I think part of the problems people have is that they assume it's okay and don't check anything until an idiot light comes on or it breaks. I am shocked how few people know even the basics of how their car works, something we learned back in the days when we carried an extra point set, a match book, a condenser, and a screwdriver in the glove box at all times....

That's right. The days of the shade-tree mechanic are numbered. It is flat stunning to me how few young men even know how to change a tire. 

You wouldn't believe how many garden tractors and lawn mowers you can pick up for nothing... scrape out the fuel bowl, go through the carb, throw in a plug, and 9 times out of 10, they start right up.
Nobody fixes anything anymore. They don't know how.

 

[sneakypete]

only get worse. double-otts were pretty good yet, but the 10's are craptastic.



The entire industry is becoming a tribute to planned obsolescence, and it's a cryin shame.

Yup,and what puzzles me the most about it is that the executives that control the auto industry are in on it. The only thing I can figure is that in their "Brave New World of Communism Done Right",they understand that power is more valuable than money,and 100 bucks is a LOT of money to most people,who will be living in government housing,eating in government cafeterias,and riding government buses to work so they can earn 5 bucks a day. How many millions do you need to be powerful in a world like that?

As for me,I am in the process of redoing the cosmetics of a 51 Ford Victoria so I can drive and enjoy it until I find a buyer,and getting new brakes put on my 37 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 truck that is sitting on a 72 Ford F-250 chassis and still has the (modified) 390 in it. People freak out when I cruise by them on the 4 lanes,running 70-75 mph.

What sucks is because of the cancer and the cancer treatment,I am unable to do any of this work myself,and am having to pay a professional garage to do it.

[roamer_1]

Yup,and what puzzles me the most about it is that the executives that control the auto industry are in on it. The only thing I can figure is [...]

@sneakypete
Inventory taxes did it. and that drove JIT manufacturing and eventually, delivery...
You can't sit on warehouse-loads of parts anymore, so parts have become incidental to automakers... Almost a 'necessary evil' that they must pay lip service to, rather than the lion's share of their profit...

With JIT parts, and no real inventories or large production runs, there is no drive to use what they already have, so they are free to change things up year to year without any real consideration toward the bottom line... But that broke the parts continuum.

Shoot, on Chevy's, 65 to 85, tons of stuff was interchangeable even with differences in body and style. That ain't so no more. Even year to year. It's crazy.

As for me,I am in the process of redoing the cosmetics of a 51 Ford Victoria so I can drive and enjoy it until I find a buyer,and getting new brakes put on my 37 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 truck that is sitting on a 72 Ford F-250 chassis and still has the (modified) 390 in it. People freak out when I cruise by them on the 4 lanes,running 70-75 mph.

I am just about to rebuild my 78, like I said upthread... But I have a 58 fleetside Apache on the hook, and that might just change things up... I love a '58 all jacked up... They're just regal like that... So if I get her, she's getting skyjacked with a big lift and '44s...  If that happens, I'll be using my 78 for undercarriage which might just work out alright...

I built a 4wd 85 1T dually back in the day that's coming back around... It's a cowboy cadillac, rigged for 5th-wheel... if the 58 works out, I'll pick that ol girl up for under a grand and go back though it for my daily driver... I'll throw a dumping flatbed on it with a ladder rack and a cherry picker and all my picking-up problems are solved.

What sucks is because of the cancer and the cancer treatment,I am unable to do any of this work myself,and am having to pay a professional garage to do it.

What I done wrong here... The worst dang thing... I spent too much on the cabin and run myself out of fun-tickets... Couldn't afford to put up the shop... Hell, even a garage would be a gain... I am getting better, but I am still all stove up. If I had 4 walls and a lid, a bridge crane here, an air compressor there, hydraulic lift tables and benches... If I had the building, I could get around my troubles and make the shop do what I can't... I am too damn old and gimped up to be laying in the snow fixin on things.

So I ain't saying I get it, but I get it.

Hope still springs eternal. I was in a wheel chair 8 years ago. Now I am walking around. So sh*t can change. Hope the same goes for you. 

[sneakypete]

@sneakypete

Hope still springs eternal. I was in a wheel chair 8 years ago. Now I am walking around. So sh*t can change. Hope the same goes for you. 

@roamer_1

Thanks,but like the meat in the grocery store,we all have our own individual "best if used by" date,and the closer you get to that date,the harder it gets to recover from illness and injury.

Death is Mother Nature's way of telling you to "Get the HELL out of the way!"

[roamer_1]

@roamer_1

Thanks,but like the meat in the grocery store,we all have our own individual "best if used by" date,and the closer you get to that date,the harder it gets to recover from illness and injury.

Death is Mother Nature's way of telling you to "Get the HELL out of the way!"

@sneakypete

Yeah. You know that, and I know that... But it would be great to die with my boots on.

It seems to me the way that happens is to keep kickin and screamin, punchin and gougin up till the very second your ticket gets punched. I ain't got time to die.

 

[sneakypete]

@sneakypete

Yeah. You know that, and I know that... But it would be great to die with my boots on.

It seems to me the way that happens is to keep kickin and screamin, punchin and gougin up till the very second your ticket gets punched. I ain't got time to die.

 

@roamer_1

Works for me. Just because I'm old and sick,it doesn't mean I am going to take any crap from anyone.

I don't think I have a mind to lose anymore,though. Sat down and had a pleasant conversation with my ex yesterday. Kept waiting to hear the music from The Twilight Zone playing,but it never happened. Maybe she gave her demons a couple of days off? After all,she has kept them insanely busy for several decades now,so even demons deserve a little free time.

I don't see this EVER becoming a regular thing,though. Sooner or later one of us is going to be having a bad day,and it's off to the races again.

[roamer_1]

Sat down and had a pleasant conversation with my ex yesterday.

@sneakypete

Heh. None for me, thanks.   

[sneakypete]

@sneakypete

Heh. None for me, thanks.   

@roamer_1

I am NOT the least bit ashamed to admit I kept both legs out from under the table so I could run if I needed to. She is probably the only person in the world that scares the hell out of me. Her children even go out of their way to pat me on the shoulder,smile,and speak with me every time they see me. That scares me a little,too.  Especially since when I look into the eyes of her oldest daughter,I see me looking back at me. Nobody has said anything,and I am afraid to ask at this late date. I am going to be SERIOUSLY pissed if I ever find out she has been hiding that from me all these years.

[Smokin Joe]

The synthetic oil is great stuff. Too bad you got stuck on GM. If you had been running a Ford,or even better,a 318/360 Dodge,you would be doing even better. GM is what keeps commercial garages in business.


 
You need to run some engine flush through your block. Synthetic oil does a pretty good job of flushing away contaminants so the oil filter can catch the big ones,but it's not an engine flush.

You SHOULD be able to change oil and filter every 10k miles at a MINIMUM,and see what almost looks like clean oil drain out. Seems like you must have a blow-by problem. Change your PCV valve and hope that does it. If it doesn't,you have blow-by in your rings.

BTW,do NOT use that partial synthetic crap or use heavy oil unless your engine is a oil burner. I personally prefer Mobile 1,and run 0-20 wt in my new truck,and 5w-40 turbo diesel Mobile 1 in my good truck.

Still stuck with using non-detergent oil in stuff like my stock 51 Fords,and will do so until I have the time to drop the oil pans and clean them out.
 

From what I saw while working as a mechanic,they didn't even care then. Mostly they were concerned with the inconvenience.

I'll change the PCV valves (cheap fix) first. I run them hard. the in town ones get a lot of stop and go crap ("grandma's taxi, especially), the over the road ones get in dirty environments and can be anywhere from 2000 ft. elevation to 10K, sometimes in the same day, and a lot of dirt road when they get there. Air filters seem to be okay, no leaks, so it pretty much has to be fuel.

I'm leery of engine flushes. Don't know what he did (likely beer involved, too), but a friend seized a mill doing that years ago.

Running Mobil 1 0-30.

[sneakypete]

I'll change the PCV valves (cheap fix) first. I run them hard. the in town ones get a lot of stop and go crap ("grandma's taxi, especially), the over the road ones get in dirty environments and can be anywhere from 2000 ft. elevation to 10K, sometimes in the same day, and a lot of dirt road when they get there. Air filters seem to be okay, no leaks, so it pretty much has to be fuel.

I'm leery of engine flushes. Don't know what he did (likely beer involved, too), but a friend seized a mill doing that years ago.

Running Mobil 1 0-30.

@Smokin Joe

Well,staying sober long enough to remember most of the instructions is always a big help. What I always do is wait until the engine is a quart or more low,then I start and run it long enough to get up to full operating temperature,and THEN I dump in a quart of engine flush,and allow the engine to idle for whatever length of time the instructions on the engine flush recommend. Then I shut it down,drain all the oil and engine flush out of it,change the filter,and add 5 quarts of fresh detergent 10w-30 regular oil. I check the PCV valve to make sure the piston in it is still operating freely,and then start it up,and either let it idle until it reaches normal temps,or take it for a short drive while watching the oil pressure VERY carefully to make sure some sort of "slug" didn't get knocked loose and is blocking something. If it all seems to be good,I might even drive it a few miles at highway speeds and then come straight home and immediately drain it,replace the filter again,and then fill it up with synthetic oil. This is if the engine has good compression and wasn't a oil burner.

If it was/is a oil burner,do everything above,but then fill the engine with something like 10w-40 high detergent regular oil. No sense in spending all that money on synthetic if it's just going to get blown out the tail pipe.

[Wingnut]

No car should last 200K.  It aint natural.